Slow Travellers - Day in Amsterdam and Journey to Berlin

After a good night's sleep, with less gentle rocking than our outward journey, we arrived in Amsterdam ferry port at a much more socialable time than our arrival in Hull - 9.40am local time. After a small breakfast we disembarked and jumped on the pre-booked coach to Amsterdam Centraal. Our train to Berlin would leave the following day, so we had a room booked at a hotel in the Amsteldorp area of Amsterdam, as recommended by a friend who is a local, and who we would catch up later in the afternoon. 

As expected the centre was very busy, so after dropping off our bags at the station we headed through the crowds and towards some quieter canals and then onto the recently(ish) renovated Rijksmuseum where we had a slot booked for 12.30pm (kids go free). To take in everything would have been quite an effort but we took a small journey through the history of Dutch art and saw some works by Dutch masters such as Rembrandt, Van Gogh and Vermeer. Exiting via the gardens in the sunshine was a nice contrast to the busy halls. We then grabbed some local fries before heading to pick up our bags and to our hotel. 

We recharged in the hotel courtyard bar with our friend before taking a final evening stroll along the Amstel and some of its adjoinjng canals. Marla was fascinated by all the locals out on boats enjoying the evening sun and wondered why we we're on one too. Perhaps next time...

With our train leaving at 1pm and our check out at 11am we had a slow morning and enjoyed some pancakes in the hotel for breakfast. Our train to Berlin is direct this time, and we were happy to have reserved seats given how busy it was. With only a slight delay in our train we arrived safely in Berlin after a 7 hour train journey. 

Our return leg felt less exhausting - a combination of our expectations from the outward journey and the shorter trips to Newcastle and Amsterdam helped. In terms of what we have seen and done this journey beats any flight hands-down. In terms of duration we could have shorted it by not stopping in Newcastle or Amsterdam overnight but it broke up the journey nicely and allowed Marla to appreciate how far we travel to visit relatives. After some initial trepidation about travelling by boat and train, Marla says she likes both and I definitely agree. It won't always be possible to make the journey with train or boat, but it's definitely a viable alternative (also financially viable if you take out the hotel stays...). We already have our next trip to Scotland booked with the ferry, this time with the four of us and by car rather than train!

Slow Travellers - Edinburgh to Newcastle

After a week and a half visiting friends and family in and around Edinburgh we say goodbye to Grandma and Grandpa and begin our return journey to Berlin. Our first stop is in Newcastle Upon Tyne, about 1 1/2 hours on the train from Edinburgh Waverley. The train journey is one of my favourites - hugging the east coast you get a wonderful view of the North Sea coastline and several picturesque towns such as Berwick Upon Tweed. 

With Newcastle's Metro network it's possible to get close to the ferry terminal (with an additional 20min walk) but we are visiting and staying overnight with some friends in nearby Whitley Bay. But first we wander around the city centre for the afternoon, leaving our bags at a cafe next to the central station using the Stasher App - which helps you locate nearby insured premises to stations which provide luggage storage at an affordable rate. 

We take in some of Newcastle's Georgian streets and the bridges across the Tyne river (including the Tyne Bridge, designed by the same team of engineers as the Sydney Harbour Bridge) before getting the Metro out to the coast to stay with our friends (and their giant dog, much to Marla's excitement) and enjoy some local fish and chips together. The following morning we take a stroll along the beach and prominade and enjoy and ice cream and paddle before heading to the nearby ferry port, kindly dropped off by our hosts.

Boarding goes very smoothly, the DFDS ferry feels marginally smaller than the P&O ferry and not as busy. Our room is still very comfortable with bunk beds rather than single beds, and it's own en-suite. Having stocked up on food beforehand we snack on the deck whilst watching the ship pass North Shields pier and lighthouse. The on-board entertainment seems a little lower key than on our previous ship so we decide to watch a film on one of the two screens in the on-board cinema before heading to bed.

Slow Travellers - Berlin to Rotterdam

The first step in our journey was a 6hr 50min train journey on IC train to Rotterdam Centraal with one transfer in Amerfoort. We would spend an evening and day in Rotterdam before travelling on the ferry to Hull the following evening.

After a short 15min tram journey to Berlin Hauptbahnhof, everything looked to be going smoothly until we were informed that the journey would take approx 40mins longer than planned due to some works on the line. However this was tempered by bumping into a BBS classmate on the platform. They were traveling to Amsterdam and happened to have booked the seats directly behind us - and a 7 hour playdate ensued! This also took the edge of further delays and staff shortages, both of which are unfortunately more common on Deutsche Bahn at the moment, particularly in peak seasons.

Rotterdam Centraal has an impressive main hall for arriving in, and after a short metro journey we walked for about 15 minutes along the harbour in the Kop van Zuid area of Rotterdam to get to our hotel. From our walk we already got a glimpse of the city skyline, the harbour and the Erasmus bridge. 

We stayed at the Hotel New York, itself a tourist attraction. The building was previously home to the office of the Holland America Line (Nederlandsch Amerikaansche Stoomvaart Maatschappij). It was used as temporary accommodation for European emigres in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to America. Reminders of this were scattered around the building and surrounding area, and the main cruise line terminal was next door - unfortunately this was not where our ferry was to depart from!

The hotel was very welcoming and even had a small gift waiting for Marla on arrival in our room. Both tired we had some food in the hotel restaurant and had an early night to save our energy for the next day exploring Rotterdam. Marla was particularly taken by the robots helping the waiting staff with their dishes.

Slow Travellers - Hull to Edinburgh

Our ferry was due to arrive in Hull at 7.30am local time so I had set our alarm for about 6.30am to give us time to quicky wash and pack - however I need not have bothered as we were awoken by a ship wide announcement at 6am that the breakfast buffet was now open. Looking out of the window we were surprised to see we were making our way along the Humber estuary, so we quickly got dressed and went to deck to watch the ship arriving. Disembarking too a lot longer than planned due to passport control mainly, but we were greeted by my Uncle who lives in nearby Beverley. Marla had excitedly spotted him arriving at the port car part from the deck. We would stay with him for a night before travelling onwards to Edinburgh.

After some breakfast we spent the morning recovering from the days travel before heading to the beach at Hornsea and a gentle wander through the town of Beverley for an evening meal.

The next day we drove to York - we had initially planned this trip with train with a stopover in York, but my uncle decided to join us and offered to drive us there which made life a bit easier with luggage too. As expected York was very busy with tourists. We had a slot booked at the Jorvik Viking centre ( York has a strong viking past) however their main attraction - a ride through a reconstructed viking settlement had broken down so we opted for a refund. Instead we wandered through the (very busy) Shambles - a network of narrow medieval shopping streets and took in views of the city walls before taking a tour of impressive York Minister.

Marla was starting to show some signs of fatigue and with the heat and busyness of the city we decided to take an earlier train to Edinburgh as we had an open ticket. The train was very busy but we were very lucky to get seats. The train journey from York to Edinburgh is very picturesque, cutting through Durham, Newcastle Upon Tyne and Berwick Upon Tweed and hugging the North sea and Firth of Forth coastlines before arriving in Edinburgh, where Grandma and Grandpa were there to greet us.

It's been a long and at times exhausting journey, and we were fortunate enough to stop off in a couple of lovely places, but it's a vastly different experience to jumping on a plane. It has also gone relatively smoothly considering all the different stopovers we have made. Rotterdam has a lot to offer and is very easy to move around in - it's somewhere we would both like to revisit. We are curious now on how our return journey will go in two weeks and what surprises lie in store!

Slow Travellers - Day in Rotterdam + Ferry to Hull

After a slow morning, Marla and I checked our and were able to leave our luggage at the hotel allowing us a day to Explore Rotterdam. Highlights included: walking across the Erasmus Bridge (as shown above)

 Open Air Maritime Museum - where you can wander through a number of boats sitting on the canal.

Markthalle - with an incredible amount of places to eat to choose from.

Some interesting architecture in the Museum Park (and recharging in the adjoining parks) 

The highlight for Marla was taking a Water Taxi back to our hotel - very easy to book with the local app and very affordable.

Our journey to the ferry was not as smooth, as surprisingly there is no public transport directly to the port. The ferry provider puts on a coach (for an additional fee) but there was some confusion with the timing of the departure. It did eventually arrive and we made it to the ferry with enough time for passport control and to check into our Cabin, explore the decks and grab some food before setting sail in the sunset. Marla was very excited but slightly anxious about getting sea sick. Thankfully there is lots of board to distract us, including a cinema and some live performances from a rock band and a theatrical show. After watching this (and checking out the deck one last time) we settled down for the night. Marla slept like a log, I was a bit more unsettled with the mild rocking but got there in the end!

Slow Travellers - A Journey from Berlin to Edinburgh

Since moving to Berlin over 10 years ago, we have made numerous trips home to visit friends and family in Scotland. Until now the most convenient (and previously most affordable) way to travel was via budget airlines from Berlin directly to Edinburgh. However since our daughter Marla started school last year we are now restricted to travelling in the school holidays, impacting in the choice and price of flights. The environmental impact of flying is well reported and we have long considered alternative means of transport with a lower carbon footprint. With the prolonged summer school break, my daughter and I decided to take the long way home and document our experience for potentially sharing with her classmates in the next school year. Marla attends Berlin Bilingual School, which is home to a vibrant international community (many of whom fly regularly to visit family) and I volunteer support to our schools Climate Action group - so this seemed like an ideal opportunity to share the benefits and (hopefully minimal!) drawbacks to slow travel,

Together with Marla we sketch our planned route as shown below - we first travel to Rotterdam with train, before taking a ferry across to Hull overnight and then taking a train up to Edinburgh. For our return trip we will take a train to Newcastle Upon Tyne in the north of England, before ferrying to Amsterdam overnight and taking a train back to Berlin. As this is a ‘slow travel’ journey we will also make a number of overnight stops to visit some placets along the way and to cátch up with friends and family in the journey.

I also wanted to document the difference in carbon emissions (as well as cost, distance and time taken) that our journey takes in comparison to our well trodden flight route. There were of course other options (such as taking the train via the eurotunnel and via London) but the route we chose was the most economical financially and also allowed us to stop off at new places and visit some friends/family. There are a number of websites which can help you calculate your carbon emissions for each journey (and many try to sell you carbon offsetting!) but i found the most useful to be https://www.goclimate.com/travel-calculator. The figures it produces match those from a number of other websites but i like how they compare each journey via the mode of transport. Below you can see an overview of our predicted CO2 emissions. For duration for flying i have allowed for an hour journey at either end plus 2 hours for checking in.